Varanasi: The City of Life and Death – A Unique Perspective on Mortality in India

Varanasi, the ancient city located on the banks of the sacred Ganges River, is one of the oldest living cities in the world. For millions of Hindus, it is not only a place of deep spiritual significance but also a sacred destination for the afterlife. Many believe that dying here ensures liberation from the endless cycle of birth and rebirth, known as moksha. This belief has transformed Varanasi into a city where death is not feared but revered and celebrated.

In this blog, we will explore the unique practices surrounding death in Varanasi, particularly in places like the Mukti Bhawan ("House of Salvation") and Manikarnika Ghat, where the deceased are cremated in public ceremonies. Through a personal narrative and in-depth exploration, we’ll learn about the rituals, cultural beliefs, and the people who make a living from death in this city.

The Sacred City of Death

Varanasi is a focal point for Hindu belief in moksha, where dying and being cremated is seen as the ultimate act of salvation. The city's connection to the divine is exemplified by its association with Lord Shiva, one of the principal Hindu gods. Varanasi’s reputation as the "City of Death" stems from its unique spiritual significance; it is said that anyone who dies here and is cremated on the banks of the Ganges achieves liberation from the cycle of reincarnation.

However, death in Varanasi is not simply a somber event. It is seen as a natural part of life’s cycle, one that is surrounded by rituals that are meant to provide peace and solace to both the deceased and their loved ones. For many families, the act of taking a loved one to Varanasi to die is an important journey, one that offers the promise of salvation.

Mukti Bhawan: The House of Salvation

Mukti Bhawan is a hospice located in Varanasi that has become a sanctuary for those who come to the city with the sole purpose of dying here to attain moksha. This place is different from other hospitals or hospices; here, death is seen as the final step toward spiritual freedom.

The rules at Mukti Bhawan are strict: guests can only stay for a maximum of 15 days, as it is believed that within this time, they should be able to pass away peacefully. The experience of staying at Mukti Bhawan is intimate and focused on spiritual rituals designed to guide the soul towards liberation. Visitors are often provided with sacred water from the Ganges, holy basil leaves, and music to aid in their spiritual journey. The low cost of accommodation – a mere 20 cents per night – emphasizes that the purpose of staying here is not to seek comfort but to prepare for the journey beyond.

The Rituals of Death: Manikarnika Ghat

One of the most iconic locations for cremation in Varanasi is Manikarnika Ghat, often referred to as the "cremation ghat". This place is where most of the dead are cremated, with open-air pyres continually burning throughout the day and night. It is a place where the deceased are sent off in accordance with ancient Hindu traditions.

For those who work here, such as Pachkosi Chaudhary, a cremation worker at the ghat, death is a daily routine. He belongs to the Dom caste, traditionally tasked with handling the dead. Pachkosi has been performing this work since he was a young boy, and while the work is physically demanding and dangerous, he views it as a sacred responsibility. He believes in treating the deceased with dignity, ensuring that each body is given a proper cremation ceremony, which is essential for the deceased's spiritual journey.

Pachkosi's work is not only practical but also deeply philosophical. As he works, he reflects on the nature of life and death. For him, the body is just a shell, and what truly matters is the soul that has departed. His perspective on death is a reminder that in Varanasi, death is seen as a transition rather than an end. The work he does is essential, and even though it may seem grim to outsiders, it carries profound spiritual meaning for the people of the city.

The Ganges: A Sacred River

The Ganges River plays a central role in the death rituals of Varanasi. For Hindus, the river is considered a goddess, Ganga, and its waters are believed to purify the soul. Mourners and the dying often take ritual baths in the Ganges to cleanse themselves of sins, and many also drink the river’s water, despite its pollution.

Ram Bali, a 73-year-old man who has spent his life rowing a boat on the Ganges, credits the river with his good health and vitality. He believes that drinking the water and immersing himself in it regularly strengthens him, even though scientific research shows the river’s water is highly polluted. This faith in the river’s power underscores the immense spiritual value placed on the Ganges, regardless of its physical state.

A Unique Perspective on Death

What makes Varanasi’s approach to death truly unique is the perspective it offers on mortality. For many people in the West, death is something to be feared and avoided. But in Varanasi, death is a part of the natural cycle of life. It is embraced as a spiritual event, an opportunity for liberation from the endless cycle of birth and rebirth.

For the people living and working in Varanasi, death is not a taboo subject. It is a daily part of their lives, and they view it with respect and reverence. The city’s focus on death does not make its inhabitants morbid; rather, it teaches them to live fully and peacefully, knowing that death is not something to be feared, but something to be understood and accepted as part of the human experience.

Conclusion: The Lessons of Varanasi

Visiting Varanasi and witnessing the rituals surrounding death offers valuable insights into how different cultures and religions approach mortality. In this sacred city, death is not an end but a new beginning—a spiritual transition that allows the soul to move on to the next stage of existence. Whether at Mukti Bhawan, Manikarnika Ghat, or on the banks of the Ganges, the people of Varanasi remind us that death is not something to fear, but a part of a greater spiritual journey.

In a world where death is often hidden away, Varanasi offers a unique perspective, one that teaches us to live more mindfully and accept the inevitability of death with grace and understanding.