I’ve kept jumping spiders for a few years now, and if you’re new to them, welcome aboard — they’re clever little hunters, easy to care for, and full of personality. But one thing that trips up a lot of beginners is feeding. What do they eat? How often? What’s safe and what’s not?

Here’s a simple breakdown based on what’s worked in my own setups and what I’ve picked up from others in the hobby.

What Do Jumping Spiders Eat?

Jumping spiders are visual predators — they don’t build webs to catch food like other spiders. Instead, they stalk and pounce on moving prey. That means you’ll want to offer live food that’s the right size and moves enough to grab their attention.

Good Options for Food:

Fruit flies – Great for young spiders or smaller species. Easy to culture.

Pinhead crickets – Widely available. Just don’t leave them in the enclosure too long.

Houseflies or blue/green bottle flies – A favorite for adult jumpers. Easy to catch and hunt.

Mealworms or waxworms – OK in moderation, but don’t overdo it. They’re fatty and can be hard to digest.

Small roaches (like Dubia nymphs) – Good option for those with multiple inverts.

Avoid anything too big, too fast, or that can fight back. A good rule is to keep prey smaller than the spider’s body.

How Often Should You Feed?

Adult jumping spiders usually do well being fed 2 or 3 times a week. Spiderlings tend to need food more often—every other day or so. They’ll eat what they need and ignore the rest, so don’t worry too much if they skip a meal now and then.

If your spider is looking full (big round abdomen), give it a few days off. Overfeeding can cause issues, especially in smaller enclosures.

In bioactive or larger jumping spider enclosures, you can let prey wander a bit and let your spider hunt naturally. Just make sure to remove anything uneaten after a day or so.

Feeding Tips That Actually Work

Feed during the day – Jumpers are diurnal (active during the day), so they’ll be more interested in food then.

Use feeding tongs or a soft brush – Makes it easier to place prey near the spider.

Leave them alone after feeding – Don’t tap the enclosure or poke around. Let them eat in peace.

And if your spider is in pre-molt (staying still, webbing more, or hiding), don’t feed. Wait until it’s finished molting and hardened up again.

What About Water?

You don’t need a water dish. Just lightly mist part of the enclosure every few days. They’ll drink from droplets. Don’t soak the whole setup — jumping spiders don’t like overly humid conditions. A little goes a long way.

Bonus: Thinking About Expanding?

A lot of people who start with jumping spiders eventually end up keeping other inverts — mantids are a natural next step. They’re beautiful, fun to watch, and offer a totally different kind of interaction.

If that sounds like you, there’s plenty of interest in mantis for sale UK wide, especially ornamental species like the Ghost or Orchid mantis. When looking to buy orchid mantis UK, always go through someone with good feedback and healthy stock. The same goes for buying exotic animals UK in general — stick with licensed, responsible breeders.

And just like with spiders, enclosure setup matters. Praying mantis enclosures need good airflow, vertical climbing space, and plenty of room for molting.

Final Thoughts

Feeding your jumping spider isn’t complicated, but it does take a bit of attention. Keep the prey the right size, don’t overfeed, and clean up any leftovers. Misting for water and checking for signs of molting are part of the routine.

Over time, you’ll learn your spider’s habits and preferences. Some are picky. Some are bold hunters. It’s part of what makes them so much fun to keep.

Once you’ve got the basics down, you might find yourself looking into other species — and when that time comes, whether it’s a mantis, beetle, or something a bit more exotic, there’s a whole world of amazing creatures out there waiting to be discovered.